10 Useful Tools When Changing Your Oil

Changing your own oil is simple until it is not. The job goes wrong for predictable reasons: the car is not supported safely, the drain plug is overtightened or seized, the filter is stuck, or you spill oil everywhere and spend longer cleaning than servicing. These tools stop the common failures and make the job repeatable.

1. Hydraulic floor jack and jack stands

A jack lifts. Stands hold. Mixing those up is how people get crushed doing a basic service.

A hydraulic floor jack gives controlled lift and enough travel to get the front end high enough for drainage and access. The jack is still a lifting device, not a support device. Once the car is up, you put it onto jack stands placed under the correct jacking points or structural members specified in the owner’s manual.

Two points matter here: stability and redundancy. Flat ground is non-negotiable. If you lift on uneven surfaces, the car can shift as you crack the drain plug free. Once on stands, give the car a controlled shake. If it rocks or creaks, lower it and reset. You want the vehicle to feel like it is sitting on blocks, not balanced.

If you cannot lift safely, do not do the job. Ramps can be a safer alternative for many cars because they remove the need for jack stands, yet they still require chocks and flat ground.

2. Wheel chocks

Chocks are cheap and boring, which is why people skip them and then act surprised when physics happens.

When you lift the front of the car, the rear wheels are still on the ground. If the car can roll, it will. Use proper rubber or heavy-duty plastic chocks behind the tyres that remain on the ground. If the front is lifted, chock the rear wheels. If you lift one side only, chock both wheels on the opposite side.

Also, set the parking brake and put the car in park for automatic transmissions, or in gear for manuals. Do all of this before lifting.

3. Socket wrench and correct sockets

The drain plug is a small part with big consequences. Using the wrong socket rounds the head, then you are stuck with a leak and a repair bill.

Most drain plugs use a hex head somewhere in the 13 mm to 19 mm range, yet you should not guess. Confirm the size first, then use a six-point socket rather than a twelve-point. Six-point sockets grip flat faces better and are less likely to round a plug that has been overtightened.

A short-handled ratchet can struggle with a tight plug. A longer ratchet gives more leverage, yet leverage also makes it easier to strip threads if you keep turning after it breaks free. The goal is controlled force, not brute force.

4. Breaker bar

A breaker bar is for the one moment where you need high torque to crack a fastener loose, then stop.

Drain plugs get seized for two main reasons: overtightening and corrosion. A breaker bar provides more leverage and a smoother breakaway motion than a ratchet, which reduces the chance you jerk the socket off and round the head.

Use it correctly. Keep the socket square on the plug, keep your force in line with the handle, and break the plug free with a steady push. Once it moves, switch to the ratchet or loosen by hand.

If the plug still will not move, do not escalate to madness. Penetrating oil, a short wait, and a second controlled attempt is safer than snapping the plug or stripping the pan threads.

5. Oil drain pan

A drain pan is not just a bucket. The shape matters.

A good pan is wide and shallow so it catches the initial stream, which often shoots sideways as the plug comes out. It also needs a large capacity since many engines hold 4 to 8 quarts (roughly 3.8 to 7.6 litres), and you do not want to overflow a pan on the driveway.

Look for a pan with a pour spout or integrated funnel so you can transfer used oil into a sealed container without spilling. Used oil is slippery and stains. Once it is on concrete, it is there for longer than you want.

Place the pan slightly rearward of the drain plug. As the oil drains it can arc, then shift as flow reduces. Positioning matters more than people expect.

6. Oil filter wrench

Oil filters are designed to seal under pressure and temperature cycles. That means they can be stubborn, especially if the last filter was overtightened.

A filter wrench gives grip without crushing the filter body. The right type depends on your filter location and access:

• Cap style filter socket for cartridge housings or recessed filters
• Band or strap wrench for canister filters with more space
• Pliers-style wrench for tight spaces, used carefully to avoid tearing

If you are using a strap wrench, keep it as close to the base of the filter as possible. The base is stronger. Twisting at the far end increases the chance you crumple the filter and make a mess.

Before removal, crack the filter loose, then reposition the drain pan. Filters often spill a surprising amount of oil down the side of the block.

7. Torque wrench

Most oil change disasters are not caused by oil. They are caused by the drain plug.

The drain plug has a torque specification, and it is lower than many people think. Overtighten it and you can strip the threads in the oil pan, crush the washer, or make the plug impossible to remove next time. Undertighten it and you can leak oil slowly until the engine runs low.

A torque wrench makes the clamp load repeatable. Set it to the manufacturer’s spec for your drain plug, then tighten until it clicks once. Do not keep clicking it like it is a game.

If your car uses a crush washer, replace it. A crushed washer does not seal as well the second time, and it encourages overtightening as you chase a leak that is really a washer problem.

8. Funnel

A funnel saves you from a slippery engine bay and a burning oil smell that lingers for weeks.

Use a funnel that fits the oil filler neck properly, then pour slowly. Some engines have filler necks positioned above hot exhaust components or plastic covers. Spilling oil there can lead to smoke and odour on the next drive, plus it can soften rubber and attract grime.

A long neck funnel can help on engines with awkward filler locations. It also reduces the temptation to pour fast, which is how you overflow the neck and flood the top of the engine.

After filling, wipe the filler area and cap, then run the engine and recheck the dipstick after a few minutes. The oil level should be checked on level ground, and you should always confirm the cap is fully seated.

9. Nitrile gloves

Hot oil is unpleasant. Used oil is worse. It contains contaminants, fuel residue, and combustion byproducts. Gloves make the job cleaner and reduce skin exposure.

Use nitrile rather than latex. Nitrile resists oils better, and it is less likely to tear when you are handling sharp edges under a car. Keep a spare pair nearby because oil-soaked gloves reduce grip.

Gloves also help you feel leaks. If you wipe around the drain plug and filter with a gloved finger, you can detect fresh oil faster than you can see it.

10. Shop towels or rags

Oil changes are won with cleanup discipline. Towels are what keep small mistakes from turning into big messes.

Use shop towels to wipe the drain plug, the mating surface, and any oil that runs down the pan. Wipe the filter mount face before installing the new filter. Old gasket material can stick to the engine and cause a double gasket seal, which usually leaks badly once the engine builds pressure.

Keep towels ready for your hands, tools, and any drips. Once oil is on a tool handle, it becomes harder to apply controlled torque.

Used towels are oily waste. Bag them and dispose of them responsibly along with the old oil and filter.

Optional but worth having if you do this more than once

Mechanic’s creeper

A creeper saves your back and neck. It also makes it easier to move out from under the car smoothly, which matters when you are holding a drain pan or a hot filter.

Choose one that rolls well on your driveway surface. Small hard wheels struggle on rough concrete.

Cardboard or tarp

A tarp or large cardboard sheet is cheap insurance. It catches drips you did not expect and protects the driveway from stains.

It also helps you spot leaks. A fresh drip stands out on cardboard far better than on dark concrete.

If you want the oil change to stay simple, the job is mostly about safe support, controlled loosening, correct tightening, and clean handling, and these tools cover those points without guesswork.

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