11 Winter Checks You Can Do In 10 Minutes

Winter is when small maintenance gaps turn into big problems, usually at night, in the rain, with kids in the car and your phone on one per cent. These checks are quick, repeatable, and focused on the parts that fail first in cold weather and salted roads. You can do all of them on the driveway in about 10 minutes, then drive knowing the basics are handled…

1. Tyre pressure on all four tyres

Cold air contracts, so tyre pressures drop as temperatures fall. That changes braking distance, wet grip, steering response, and fuel use, plus it can trigger uneven wear that sticks around long after winter ends.

Use a reliable gauge and check pressures when tyres are cold, meaning the car has been parked for a few hours. Match the pressures to the placard on the door jamb or fuel flap, not the number on the tyre sidewall.

If one tyre is noticeably lower than the rest, treat it as a slow leak until proven otherwise. Top it up, then recheck the next morning. A tyre that keeps dropping needs a puncture repair, a valve core replacement, or a bead clean and reseat.

Quick steps

• Check the placard pressures front and rear
• Measure each tyre, write the numbers in your phone
• Inflate to placard spec
• Refit valve caps tightly, they keep grit and moisture out

2. Tyre tread depth and shoulder wear

Tread depth is your winter grip budget. Shallow tread cannot clear water and slush fast enough, so braking and turning become guesswork at exactly the wrong time.

Check the centre and both shoulders on each tyre. Many tyres wear the inner shoulder first, so a quick glance at the outer edge can lie to you. Use a tread gauge if you have one. If you do not, use a simple coin check as a rough screen, then confirm properly as soon as you can.

For winter driving, 3 mm is a sensible minimum for wet and slush performance, even though legal minimums can be lower depending on location. If you see cords, bulges, or exposed fabric, the tyre is finished now, not later.

What to look for

• Centre tread much lower than shoulders, overinflation
• Shoulders worn more than centre, underinflation
• One shoulder worn, alignment or suspension issue
• Cuts, bulges, bubbles, impact damage

3. Screenwash level and winter rating

Windscreen washer fluid is a safety system in winter. Salt film builds fast and road spray can turn your view into a grey smear. Plain water freezes and can split the reservoir or lines.

Top up with proper winter screenwash, then run the washers for a second to pull the mix into the lines. If the jets look weak or misaligned, clear them with a pin and aim them at the sweep area of the wipers.

If your fluid freezes, do not keep running the pump. Let the car warm up, move it into a warmer spot if possible, then refill with winter rated screenwash once flow returns.

Quick steps

• Check reservoir level
• Top up with winter mix
• Test front and rear washers if fitted
• Confirm jets hit the glass where the blades sweep

4. Wipers and windscreen condition

Newer blades can still smear if the glass is coated with wax, road film, or washer residue. Winter makes this worse because salt spray leaves a greasy haze that the wipers just drag around.

Lift each wiper and inspect the rubber edge. Look for nicks, splits, hard shiny spots, or areas that look torn. Wipe the rubber with a clean damp cloth, then wipe the windscreen with glass cleaner and a microfibre cloth.

If your blades chatter, skip, or leave a thick arc of water, the problem is often dirty glass, worn blades, weak wiper arm spring tension, or a windscreen that has micro scratches that hold film.

Fast improvements

• Clean windscreen thoroughly
• Clean blade edges
• Replace blades if the rubber edge is damaged
• Check the wiper arms sit firmly against the glass

5. All exterior lights, including brake lights

Winter driving has more darkness, more spray, more fog, and more glare. Lights are your visibility and your signal to everyone else. A single failed brake light is an easy way to get hit in traffic.

Turn on headlights and walk around the car. Check dipped beam, main beam, indicators, tail lights, brake lights, reverse lights, and fog lights if fitted. If you are alone, back up close to a wall or garage door and use the reflection to check brake lights.

Cloudy lenses cut output. A quick wipe can restore a surprising amount of brightness, especially on tail lights coated in grime.

Quick steps

• Headlights on, check both sides
• Indicators, check front and rear
• Press brake, check both brake lamps
• Reverse lights, confirm both illuminate

6. Battery health at a glance

Cold cranking loads are higher and batteries deliver less power when cold. A marginal battery that survived autumn can fail overnight in winter.

Pop the bonnet (hood) and look for white or green crust on terminals. That corrosion adds resistance and steals starting power. Tighten loose clamps and clean corrosion if you have the right tools and gloves.

If your car cranks slowly, the starter sounds strained, or electronics reset during start, the battery or charging system needs attention. A quick driveway check is to watch the headlights while someone starts the car. Big dimming points to weak battery output.

What matters now

• Clean, tight terminals
• No bulging battery case
• No slow crank symptoms
• No repeated jump starts as a routine

7. Engine oil level and condition

Oil thickens in cold weather and the engine spends more time in warm up. Low oil means less protection when the engine needs it most.

Park on level ground, wait a minute after shutdown, then check the dipstick. The oil should sit between min and max. If it is below min, top up with the correct grade listed in the manual or on the oil cap.

If the oil looks milky, thick like sludge, or smells strongly of fuel, that points to deeper issues such as coolant contamination or repeated short trips. Treat that as a service priority.

Quick steps

• Dipstick out, wipe, reinsert, pull again
• Confirm level in the safe range
• Top up in small amounts if needed
• Recheck after topping up

8. Coolant level and obvious leaks

Coolant protects against freezing and controls engine temperature. A low level can lead to overheating, heater failure, or freeze damage in extreme cold.

Check the coolant reservoir level against the min and max marks when the engine is cold. Never open a hot cooling system. Look for dried coolant stains around the reservoir, hoses, radiator edges, and under the car.

If the level drops repeatedly, there is a leak or internal consumption. Winter can make leaks show up as a sweet smell, steam, or damp patches under the front of the car.

What to look for

• Level within the marks when cold
• Staining or crust around hose joints
• Wetness under the front end
• Heater output suddenly weak, possible air in system

9. Brake pedal feel and brake fluid level

You can learn a lot from one press of the pedal. A soft pedal, a pedal that sinks slowly, or a pedal that feels spongy can signal air in the system, fluid issues, or worn components.

With the engine on, press the brake pedal firmly. It should feel solid and consistent. A slight initial drop is normal as the brake booster assists, then it should hold.

Check brake fluid level in the reservoir if visible. Low fluid can point to pad wear or a leak. If the warning light is on, do not treat it as a suggestion.

Fast checks

• Firm pedal press, confirm solid feel
• Look at brake fluid level between marks
• Watch for warning lights on the dash
• Listen for grinding or squeal on the next short drive

10. Heater, demister, and airflow

Winter visibility depends on your ability to clear the windscreen fast. A weak heater or poor airflow can turn fogging into a constant fight.

Start the car and set airflow to the windscreen. Turn the fan up and confirm strong airflow at the vents. Switch air conditioning on. It dehumidifies the cabin air and clears glass faster, even in cold weather.

If airflow is weak, a clogged cabin filter can be the cause. If the heater blows cold at idle and warms when driving, that can point to low coolant or a thermostat issue.

What you want

• Strong airflow to the windscreen
• Air conditioning engages
• Cabin clears quickly without wiping the glass
• Rear demister works if fitted

11. Quick winter kit check in the boot

A winter kit is not for drama. It is for the boring reality of a dead battery, a puncture, a road closure, or a spin that leaves you waiting for recovery.

Check that you have an ice scraper, a small brush, a torch (flashlight), gloves, and a phone cable. If you drive rural routes, add a blanket and a small shovel. If you carry a tyre inflator or jump pack, confirm it is charged and the hose is intact.

This is also the moment to confirm your spare tyre is inflated if you have one, or that your tyre sealant kit is still in date if you do not.

Fast checks

• Scraper and brush present
• Torch works
• Gloves and warm layer available
• Charging cable present
• Inflator or jump pack charged

Do these 11 checks once at the start of winter, then repeat the tyre pressure, screenwash, and lights weekly, and you cut most winter car problems off at the source before they pick the worst possible moment to show up.

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